The fashion icon Edward Enninful on Today's Society: 'A Decline in Tolerance' Than We Were Decades Ago.

A chance encounter during a tube journey in 1988 changed forever the trajectory of a young Ghanaian newcomer to Britain. Spotted by a talent scout, Edward Enninful was swiftly pulled into the London's buzzing 1990s creative scene, moving from model to stylist and, while still a teenager, becoming the fashion director of the iconic i-D.

"That time was the zenith of the YBA movement – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I encountered Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then I met Naomi for a cover, and I knew we’d be kindred spirits. We all socialised across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I long for that spontaneity."

If Enninful sounds nostalgic, he is far from alone. In recent times, a fond idealisation of the 1990s has become pervasive. Yet in the intervening decades, Enninful believes a profound shift. "In my view, we’re less tolerant now than we were in the 90s," he remarks. "It’s not even this country – it’s worldwide."

Shifting Attitudes

This change is difficult to overlook: the growth of nationalist groups, the reaction against progressive values, and the reinforcement of traditional beauty standards. Where once there was the hope of the Blair era, now a more divisive political figure appears as a potential leader. Even, the British flag, once an emblem of national pride, has become contentious again.

In Enninful's view, the antidote has always been to celebrate culture in all its variety. This was the guiding principle behind his landmark issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a portrait of modern Britain, showcasing a wide range of cultural icons from music.

"Individuals with a platform should use it," he says, discussing those publishing choices. "There is much discussion about immigration; I would not be in this position if Britain was not a open country, if it did not offer my family a home and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I always loved. I hope this phase will end."

The Younger Generation's Awareness

He takes comfort in the youth of today: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They talk about implicit prejudice – I didn't even know what that was."

The beginnings of his career would forge a trailblazing career marked by boldness and inclusivity. Enninful broke barriers as the first man, first Black editor, first gay man, and first disabled Black gay man to take the helm at British Vogue. His leadership featured diverse covers showcasing Black models, plus-sized women, an octogenarian, and individuals from varied communities. Significantly, sales grew.

"When you ignore large portions of the population, it’s more than that you’re not being inclusive – it’s commercially unwise," he states.

A New Chapter as a 'Disruptor'

He has since founded his agency EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his premier initiative since moving on from his previous role. He says he wants to continue being a "innovator".

"My nature is to challenge the conventional wisdom. I was born and raised in a place where Black professionals were the norm – the doctors, the lawyers, the leader. Then we arrived in England, penniless, and I became the 'other'. I was very shy. My teachers said I’d never amount to anything. Me and my brothers were harassed under the Sus laws … those experiences gave me a sense of being both an insider and outsider."

Defying the caricature of industry figures as brash and highly strung, Enninful is measured in tone and exudes calm. His path has included its share of challenges, including openly discussed struggles with mental health and substance use.

He has also endured significant health issues, having had multiple operations on his eyes, now leaving him with partial sight. "I was in such a dark place for two years, not working, fearing I was going to go blind. It’s similar to PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I vowed, if this ever is over, I’m just going to do everything that I was so afraid to do. I’m not going to restrict myself to just being an editor or a fashion person."

A Foray into Curation

This determination to be defined narrowly has propelled him away from the realm that established him. He is now organising a significant 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, showcasing work by a roster of pivotal artists and photographers from the era. The show, he notes, aims to explore the decade's interdisciplinary energy – and spotlight those who lacked due recognition at the time.

"Galleries often failed to shine a light on the truly innovative creators because they lacked the traditional credentials," he states.

The magazine 72 itself functions with a different approach, eschewing traditional advertising in favour of integrated partnerships. "The question is, what can we create collaboratively? Is it an event, a podcast? The magazine is part of a greater ecosystem."

A Testament to Resilience

Currently, Enninful stands as one of the world's most influential cultural influencers. His story, he states, is a demonstration to the power of pursuing your passions.

How would the Enninful of that era react to the man he has become? He chuckles. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be impressed. Back then I was sceptical of institutions. I would not have believed institutions like Tate were within my reach."

He reflects. "I never take anything for granted. We fled, we fled our country. I nearly lost my vision. So fear is not a factor. People have doubted me my entire life. But nothing can stop me once I’ve decided to do something."